It's cold, what was I thinking?

It's really cold here. So cold, in-fact, that my eyes water when I step outside and almost instantly the tears freeze to my cheeks. It's so cold I lose the feeling in my fingers and feet before I even reach the end of my street. I live on one of the shortest streets in the city. It's so cold my ears start to ring and it hurts to breath. It's so damn cold it's painful to enter a warm building after an icy trek, my whole body feels as though I've been set on fire as it thaws out.

What was I thinking, coming to Prague in the middle of winter?

The inside of my tiny, cozy apartment at 3 Anezska Street compliments the cobblestone Siberia outside cruelly; It's sweltering. The process to get into my place is almost comical in it's ridiculousness; it takes four keys and about twenty minutes. The process goes something like this;

Key number one unlocks the little red door next to the landlords wine bar (yes, I live above a bar), enter, lock again from the inside. Cross the dark hallway stacked with crates of empty vino bottles and broken furniture, give the resident mutt a pat (we still can't figure out her name, we call her "dog"), through the glass door that never shuts, into the courtyard. Key number two opens the steel gate that leads from the courtyard to the stairwell. The rusty gate takes a few minutes and some toying with to swing open. Unlock, enter, lock from inside, ascend the chipped and crumbling spiral staircase, past the creepy staring statues, reach apartment door. Key number three unlocks the top deadbolt. Key number four unlocks the bottom deadbolt, enter, lock both deadbolts. Not the easiest system, especially when it's dark and you have to pee. Oh, if there's a fire... we are screwed.

Anyways, once the apartment my body immediately begins to sweat even though I still can't feel my face. Like I said, it's a painful "thaw process" every time you escape from the outside air. It's so hot I sleep in my underwear with no blankets and the window open. How does this make any sense? My roommates and I discovered we have no control over the temperature in the apartment. We decide the transition from our inside tropicana to the outside arctic is just too absurd, so we go to Karel.

Anezska Street

Karel is our landlord. He looks somewhat like Santa Claus without the beard; he's a bit round, white hair, probably in his eighties, always sporting the same little sweater and bright rosy cheeks. It's my theory that the rosy cheeks comes more from the luxury of owning a wine bar, and not so much the jolly-laughing-ho-ho-ho thing. I'm just saying. He's the friendliest Czech I have met, always willing to help and more than willing to drink. He delivers us new sheets and towels every two weeks, and pours us a shot of plum brandy if he catches us in the hallway.

The language barrier between myself and Karel is as solid as a brick wall. The only English he knows is "I speak no English" and the only Czech I know is "Dobre den" (good day). Every encounter with him is an adventure, wether I need the heat turned down or want to pay rent. After attempting to explain that the apartment is too hot, using wild hand gestures to signify "sweating" and "fire", I admit my defeat and accept a glass of white. That's what I love about this guy, he knows every interaction is going to be a struggle so he leads me to the bar before I can mimic a "broken light" or "clogged toilet". Win or lose, you are sure to get free drink out of it. I'm thinking of paying my rent in $20 installments from here on out, it would be like a semester-long wine tasting of the Czech Republics finest.

Inside my oven-like apartment (that does not have an oven) I share a room with one other girl, while the second bedroom is also shared by two girls. The bathroom is split in two parts, toilet reached from the entryway, shower practically in the kitchen. Seriously though, I can stir a pot of spaghetti in between shampooing and conditioning without even stepping off the tile. We have exactly one hot plate, one mini fridge, four shelves, and three- count them- three sinks. No microwave, no toaster, no dishwasher, no stove- but at least we have three sinks. I am amazed at what we have been able to cook up in such a tiny space with one hot plate, trust me, you would be impressed. We have a tiny dining area with a wooden bench, and a small living room area with a TV that does not work. We also have an organ. It doesn't work either.

I am not complaining though! Living like this is truly forcing me to realize how spoiled I am to have such luxuries at home, and how little I can actually get by on and still be more than comfortable. Plus, I can't play an organ anyway.

Let's backtrack a minute, back to the cold. What am I doing in Prague, in the middle of winter?

Easy. I'm delaying the real world.

Ok not exactly, in fact I am actually progressing in my studies here in Prague. I'm doing a semester, meaning I kind of have classes that I kind of go to. My classes are two days a week, Tuesday and Wednesday, for a grand total of about 12 hours. All classes are in the same room, taught in English, and as far as I can tell... all about the same subject. I am taking "Image of Prague", "Modern Czech History", "Art and Architecture" and "Gender Studies". Each class consists of half lecture and half field trip. Every day. Usually to the same place. I'm serious though, I love the Prague Castle and all, but if I have to make the trek up there one more time I might kick a guard in the balls so I won't be allowed in anymore. Good excuse. Sorry King Charles.

I spend my free time mostly taking refuge inside. It is just too cold to spend any significant amount of time outside. I have read more than half a dozen books, visited all the main museums and galleries, seen several movies in the cinema, and regularly participate on self-guided pub crawls. My apartment is located within a four minute walk to many of the cities best attractions. Old Town Square, with its incredible astrological clock, is basically around the corner from us. The square and surrounding streets are crammed with restaurants, bars, cafes and random shops. Not surprisingly, being inside all the time ultimately means we're always eating. The food here is about as international as it gets! Thai, chinese, afghan, italian, irish, mexican and french can be found on a single street. In fact, our neighborhood has about every cuisine imaginable- except czech. I am perfectly okay with this. If I never see another potato again...

So speaking of food... It's easy to be tempted inside a cozy food joint, especially if you happen to get blasted by warm air and and an impossibly appealing aroma as you pass by the entrance to such a place. BUT, in an effort so save money and eat healthier I did something I've never done before... I learned how to cook for myself. Okay I'm not exactly "top chef" material or anything- yet. I can make just a few simple dishes with chicken and veggies, several different types of crepes, and all kinds of breakfast plates (usually not for breakfast though). Give me some credit, cooking my own chicken (and so far, not getting salmonella) is a HUGE stepping stone for someone who generally lives off top ramen and Beach Hut Deli. For those of you who have seen me attempt to cook before, do not be afraid. I am almost always under supervision.

On the rare occasion that the sun does come out, or the temperature does not begin with "-", I do everything possible to try to get out in the fresh air and enjoy the city. Our advisor has stacks and stacks of hockey skates, pucks and sticks stored in his office. On one not-so-miserable day a group of us laced up on a little frozen harbor and attempted to participate in one of the Czech Republics most beloved pastimes; ice hockey. It was entertaining, to say the least. I consider myself "decent" because I made two goals and only knocked the wind out of myself once! I slipped and hit the ice so hard I thought my body became two dimensional. Splat. I was feeling pretty confident until our advisors 11-year-old son came out and completely schooled us. I called it quits.

As I mentioned before, I have class two days a week. This means I have a five day weekend, every weekend. I could not ask for a better schedule! Being finished with class early afternoon on Wednesdays allows all kinds of potential for overnight trains or red-eye flights landing me in stunning cities across the EU on Thursday mornings. Berlin for the weekend? Why not. I'm feeling some tapas, how about Madrid tomorrow? Sure. Spring break is coming up and I'm thinking a beach in Croatia. Let's do it...